Winter sun is the way forward

We’ve never done the whole winter sun thing before. This year’s original plan was to go to Morocco with James in February half-term to stock up on some pre-A-Level vitamin D. However, when the idea was mooted it was met with horror; “I’m locked in. I am NOT going anywhere when I’ve got A-Levels to revise for.” Was the response. “Fine.” Said Eddie. “Mum and I’ll go to Barbados then.”

The first 30 seconds

It was one of those holidays when you get off the plane and it’s like being submerged in a warm bath. Palm trees lined the runway, and the sea was beautiful azure blue (or I imagined it was. The woman next to me in the window seat spent the entire flight with her blind down).

The hotel

Our hotel was about 30 minutes from the airport in Paynes Bay, which is a bijou beach with just enough room for you to set up camp for a few hours, then go for a dip when you overheat before returning to your towel/book/parasol again. Our hotel, Beach View, was a five minute walk from the beach. We stayed in a garden villa, which had a large bedroom and bathroom, a tiny kitchen and outside patio area. Just enough for what we needed. I had no intention of cooking. No road noise as we were the other side from the highway and tucked away from view by lush gardens. A small path took us down to the infinity pool we shared with the other garden residents, and next to the pool was an open-air café.

The diving

Diving was the standout for me. Our Barbados Blue instructor couldn’t have been more patient, sensitive to the fact we hadn’t dived for 21 years – so just a bit rusty… First day I got in a bit of a pickle with all the equipment, but as soon as I got in the water it felt like second nature. And there is so much to see. Wrecks, turtles, coral, shoals of iridescent fish, even a sea horse. Getting out on the water is something we always try to do on holiday and going diving also meant we had the chance to chat to some of the locals, another perspective you don’t always get when you’re a tourist.

The beaches

All the beaches in Barbados are public, but that doesn’t stop property owners erecting electric gates and installing spikes on their fencing to try and prevent you getting to them. For all their efforts to discourage innocent beachgoers, you can always find a path down to the beach of your choice if you look hard enough. Our favourite was Gibbes Bay. Bit of a faff to get to, but worth it for peace and quiet. You’ll find the tourists about 500 yards further along, clumped together on their loungers like a colony of sea lions.

It’s the East Coast that’s the game changer. An entire coastline unspoilt by Hilton or Marriot concrete monoliths, not a parasol in sight. You can’t swim there, the currents are treacherous, but it is stunning with some fantastic wildlife and walks to enjoy.

The Food

Restaurants seem to be a mixed bag in Barbados. Most are very expensive, The Lonestar and The Tides in particular. We went to the Lonestar on our first night and it didn’t feel at all Bajan to me, we could have been anywhere. It probably didn’t help that it was pitch dark at the time, so we couldn’t see the beach! But still… I’m sticking with fussy and over-priced. The Tides was a nightmare. For starters, Eddie got sent home immediately for wearing leather Birkenstocks with open toes. Apparently it was OK for me to wear open-toed wedges but not him. He came back an hour later (the traffic in Holetown is appalling), by which point we were on the verge of giving up on the whole thing. Honestly, his tennis shoes looked far worse than his original choice of footwear. We gritted our teeth through various cheesy piano medleys and ate fish obliterated with multiple accompaniments and sauces, before finally calling it a day.

Highlights on the food front were Jago’s Lounge in Paynes Bay which had the best selection of rum punches we tried on the island, and served the most beautifully simple food, well done and with a knock-out hot sauce. We also liked The Sea Cat, again for the simplicity of the food, low-key relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. The Little Bristol’s great for sundowners and only a few doors down you have Local & Co which is blessed with a stunning view out to sea, and also a little market with local clothes and produce you can remortgage your house to purchase should you so wish.

The verdict

We spent ten days in Barbados which was the perfect length of time and returned home rested and relaxed. There is a lot to do and see, so hiring a car is the way to go, although the buses have a great reputation too and if we’d had more time and been more organised we’d have given them a go. The traffic can be a bit of a nightmare, and some parts of the island are built up and busy, but it doesn’t take long to find yourself in lush, green countryside with wide, empty beaches.

I’m extremely grateful to have avoided the deluge back here in Blighty for the Caribbean sunshine. Winter sun is definitely the way forward.

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